Ever wonder how your Jeep's
axles rank against the rest of the axlehousing world? Wonder no more.
Here's how we rank 'em from the geeky weaklings to the all-star axle
jocks. Of course, you'll find a few axles missing from the list. Many
axles don't make good swaps, are not readily available, or they just
have no aftermarket support to speak of.
When compiling the list, we took the strength of the entire axle assembly in stock form into consideration. This included the gears, housings, axleshafts, and so on. Of course, there are multiple versions of many of these axles. Some are significantly weaker than their newer counterparts, and we've made notes where we could. We also threw in some tips on what to watch out for and keep in mind, whether you're looking to make a swap to something bigger or keep what ya got. To identify what axle came in your Jeep, check out "Axle Axtravaganza" in the May '07 issue.
Front Axles (weakest to strongest)
19. Dana 25
It
shares similar closed-knuckle parts with the Dana 27 and 44. It has
several weak points when overtired and overpowered, including
axletubes, differential gears, shafts, and steering joints.
18. Dana 27
See Dana 25-also has a marginally larger ring gear.
16. Low-pinion Dana 30
The
shafts and small 260-sized U-joints are its weakest parts. Also has
weak axletubes. However, it has lots of aftermarket support.
17. Closed-Knuckle Dana 44 (FSJ)
See
Dana 25-same smallish, coarse spline outer shafts and dinky U-joints
like the 25 and 27. The '71-and-later inner shafts are large 30-spline
parts. The '71-and-earlier axles have weaker 19-spline shafts.
15. Toyota 8-inch
A
stout axle for its compact size. Aftermarket Birfields can beef it up.
It can actually make for an OK Jeep swap, but it's often frowned upon
for being an import axle.
14. High-Pinion Dana 30
It's
one of our favorites when found without the axle-disconnect system.
Early versions can be converted to larger U-joints with factory and
aftermarket parts. Air time will bend the tubes. This axle has lots of
aftermarket support.
13. '06-and-earlier Rubicon Dana 44
Same outer ends, steering U-joints, and axletubes as Wrangler
Dana 30. The only real gain in strength is in the gears and inner
axleshafts (larger diameter and more splines). It has lots of
aftermarket support but limited available ratios if you're using the
stock Rubicon differentials.
12. Toyota Land Cruiser
They're
getting harder to find, but they're still usable for a Jeep (albeit an
expensive oddball possibility). It's not a popular swap or one that
makes sense unless you have the axles already. Even then, you may be
better off selling them.
11. Chevy 10-bolt
It's
marginally weaker than a GM or FSJ open-knuckle Dana 44. They have
slightly smaller 28-spline shafts and thinner axletubes. However,
almost all the 10-bolt knuckle components and stub shafts interchange
with the open-knuckle Dana 44. It's a usable full-width axle, but we'd
prefer a Dana 44.
10. Low-pinion Dana 44 (FSJ, GM, Ford, and Dodge)
Perhaps
the most swapped-in axle in history. Both left- and right-side pinion
versions are common and lots of parts interchange between different 4x4s
that used some version of the Dana 44. It has a good cost-to-strength
ratio and can be easily upgraded in many areas because it has plenty of
aftermarket support.
9. High-pinion Dana 44
Only
found in some Ford 4x4s. It's a little rare, but the ring-and-pinion
are slightly stronger than the low-pinion 44 gears when used in a front
application. There are fewer ratios available than what can be had for
a low-pinion version. It's a decent swap for a full-width axle with a
driver-side pinion.
8. '07-and-later high-pinion Rubicon Dana 44
It
features stronger tubes than the 44 axles in the previous model TJ
Wrangler. It's sure to see plenty of aftermarket support, including
complete assemblies available from Mopar.
7. Low-pinion Dana 60 (M-715)
It
has weak stub shafts and weak axletubes. Also has huge, nearly unusable
brake drums. It's not a popular or a particularly good swap.
6. Low-pinion Dana 70 (International and Dodge)
Rare. Not all that desirable.
5. Dana 50
Ford Super Duty full-width ball-joint style solid axle. Kind of an underdog. It's possibly a good swap for Jeeps that need a driver-side differential. It has a decent amount of aftermarket support.
4. Low-pinion Dana 60
It's
a kingpin-style, full-width axle commonly found in GM and early Dodge
1-tons. They're normally way overpriced in today's used axle market.
However, the 60 has unbelievable aftermarket support. You can build a
complete axle using all aftermarket components. There is also a newer
ball-joint Dodge version, which is slightly weaker.
3. High-Pinion Dana 60
It
can only be found in Fords in two versions. There is an older kingpin
design and the newer Ford Super Duty ball-joint version. The kingpin
style is typically considered stronger and more desirable. It's also
more difficult to find and more expensive. Like the low-pinion version,
this 60 has unbelievable aftermarket support. You can build a complete
axle using all aftermarket components.
2. Rockwell 2 1/2-ton
The
later-model axles with Spicer-style U-joint shafts are most desirable.
The 2 1/2-ton has unbelievable gear, steering joint, and housing
strength. The coarse spline shafts, particularly the stub shafts, are
weak when compared with the rest of the assembly. There is lots of
aftermarket support to adapt and strengthen this axle, but only one
gear ratio: 6.72:1. The large and heavy drum brakes are not all that
usable for a Jeep, especially if mud and water are in the plans. Due to
overall size, gearing, width, and weight, it's not a good axle for
tires less than 44 inches tall.
1. High-pinion Dana 70 (new GM version)
It's still a little rare, but can be found on newer GM medium-duty 4x4 trucks.
Very few ratios are available, and there are virtually no aftermarket
parts for it even though it's likely the strongest usable front axle
for a Jeep swap with tires up to and more than 44 inches in diameter.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Rear Axles (weakest to strongest)
27. Dana 25
It has several weak points when overtired and overpowered, including
the axletubes, differential gears, and two-piece axleshafts.
26. Dana 35
It
has a very weak and flexible housing that causes C-clip axle and
differential problems. Unfortunately, it has unbelievable aftermarket
support despite its weakness. However, consider any upgrades to this
axle a Band-Aid for the real problem. If you're running it hard
(especially with a locker) and it hasn't spit out its insides and it's
not bleeding gear oil out of the pressed-in tubes and plug welds, it
soon will be.
25. Low-pinion Dana 30(Mexico CJ)
It's a rare pile, but it's out there. It has weak tubes, a smallish ring gear, and two-piece axleshafts.
24. AMC 20 (CJ)
The
AMC 20 is marginal in a stock application. It has a very weak and
flexible housing that can lead to other problems. The two-piece
axleshafts are notoriously fail-prone. Much like the Dana 35, this axle
is best swapped out if you are planning to spend money on it or run
larger-than-stock tires.
23. Chevy 10-bolt
Much
like the Dana 35, it has a very weak and flexible housing that can lead
to other problems. An abused Gov-loc is a death warrant for the 10-bolt
rearend. It's not a swap-worthy, full-width axle for Jeeps.
22. '06-and-earlier Wrangler Dana 44
The
smallish axletubes (same as Dana 35) can flex and cause carrier bearing
and other failures if abused. It has lots of aftermarket support but
limited available ratios if you are using the stock Rubicon
differential.
21. GM 12-bolt
Similar
to the GM 10-bolt. It has a flexible housing and weak tubes for a
full-width axle. It's not really a good 4x4 axle worth swapping into a Jeep.
20. Toyota 8-inch
Overall,
it's a stout axle for its compact size. It actually makes an OK Jeep
swap, but is often frowned upon for being an import part. The Toyota
8-inch has lots of aftermarket support.
19. Alum Dana 44 (ZJ)
It's a decent, relatively durable axle, but there isn't much aftermarket support because it's fairly uncommon.
18. Chrysler 8.25
It's
a decent axle when mated with moderate-sized tires, however, few gear
ratios are available. It doesn't have much aftermarket support.
17. Ford 8.8 (Ranger and Explorer)
Some
versions have weaker 28-spline shafts. The '91-'01 Explorer 31-spline
version is preferred ('95-and-later have disc brakes). There's a lot of
aftermarket support for the 8.8, but the C-clip shafts are a notable
weakness. Commonly swapped into Wranglers in place of the Dana 35,
although the marginal gain in strength hardly seems worth the effort.
16. Toyota Land Cruiser
They're
getting harder to find, but they're still usable for a Jeep in need of
an offset rearend, albeit an expensive oddball possibility with
C-clips. An offset Dana 44 from a Quadra-Trac FSJ would be a better
option.
15. Ford 8.8 (fullsize version)
All have 31-spline shafts and undesirable C-clips retaining the axles. Not a particularly good full-width axle for a Jeep swap.
14. Dana 44 (non-Wrangler)
Much
like the Dana 44 front axle, the 44 rearend enjoys a lot of aftermarket
support in the form of optional ratios, floater kits, and aftermarket
differentials for more traction. Some early models are plagued with
small bend-prone axletubes, weak coarse-spline shafts (as well as
two-piece shafts), and coarse-spline pinions. Early '70-and-later Dana
44 rears are much more desirable. Look for 2 3/4-inch axletubes and
30-spline, one-piece shafts.
13. AMC 20 (FSJ)
The
FSJ AMC 20 is stronger than the CJ version and perhaps about equal to
the strength of a newer Dana 44. However, it doesn't enjoy as much
aftermarket support as the Dana. Fewer gear ratios and lockers are
available.
12. '07-and-later Wrangler (Rubicon only) Dana 44
It
features stronger tubes than the axles in the previous model Wrangler
and 32-spline shafts. It's sure to see plenty of aftermarket support,
including complete assemblies available from Mopar.
11. Chrysler 9.25
It's only found in Dodge trucks
and vans. Even though it's relatively strong, it's not all that great
of a swap for a full-width axle. Very few ratios and aftermarket
differentials are available for the 9.25. It's also a C-clip axle.
10. Ford 9-inch
It's
the king of aftermarket components. The 9-inch came in Ford cars and
trucks and can be found in many configurations, lug patterns, and
widths; junkyard versions are becoming more difficult to find. Look for
the stronger 31-spline versions over the weaker 28-spline. Most axles
can be converted to stronger 31-, 33-, 35-, and even 40-spline shafts
with bolt-on parts. Plenty of differentials are available and gear
ratios ranging from 2.80:1 to 6.50:1 are easy to find. Complete
aftermarket housings and entire assemblies are available.
9. Full-floating, 30-spline Dana 60
These are extremely common and can be easily found in junkyards under Dodges,
Fords, GMs, and Jeeps alike. They are most often found under 3/4-ton
vans and pickups, but a few came under Mopar musclecars. There is a lot
of aftermarket support for the Dana 60.
8. Semifloating Dana 60
It's
a little rare, but it can be found under early F-150s and early-'70s
FSJ pickups. It features desirable 35-spline shafts and uses common
Dana 60 gears and carriers, so a lot of aftermarket ratios and
differentials are available.
7. Full-floating Ford 10.25
The
ring gear is huge, but aftermarket support is not. The gear ratios and
differential selection is limited. Heavy use will also cause the
axletubes to break free and rotate inside the centersection. Not a
great full-width swap.
6. Full-floating 35-spline Dana 60
They
enjoy plenty of aftermarket support because they use common Dana 60
gears and carriers. However, they're very uncommon, and you're not
likely to find one in a wrecking yard. Many 35-spline 60 rear axles
have been converted from 30-spline housings.
5. Rockwell 2 1/2-ton
Rockwell
rear axles are often two to three times less expensive than their
frontend counterparts. The housing, gears, carrier, and bearings are
extremely durable. The 16-spline axleshafts are not. Aftermarket shafts
are available to bring it above Dana 80 strength. Only one gear ratio
and few lockers are available. Due to size, 6.72:1 gearing, and weight,
it's not a good axle for tires less than 44 inches tall.
4. Full-Floating GM 14-bolt
The
14-bolt is the king of cheap beef when running tires up to and more
than 44 inches tall. You can't deny the strength of the 10 1/2-inch
ring gear, huge 30-spline pinion, and 1 1/2-inch, 30-spline axleshafts.
It also enjoys a decent number of aftermarket gear ratios and
differentials. The fact that it has a removable pinion support and
spanner adjustable backlash makes 14-bolt gear and differential swaps
relatively easy. It can be found in GM 3/4- and 1-ton trucks and vans
in a few different widths. It's often found in wrecking yards for less
than $200 because it's so common. Perhaps its only real weakness is the
thin tinfoil-like diff cover.
3. Full-floating Dana 70
The
Dana 70 is another member of the cheap beef squad. However, there are
several versions making them more difficult to identify. Look for the
Dana 70U or 70HD. These feature desirable 1 1/2-inch, 35-spline shafts.
There are also plenty of ratios and a good number of aftermarket
differentials available for these versions of the 70 as well. They are
often found in 1-ton Dodge, Ford, and GM trucks, vans, and even some
tractors and heavy equipment.
2. Full-floating Dana 80
This
is the step into medium-duty truck axles. The Dana 80 is more axle than
most people will ever need. There are plenty of ratios available that
range from 3.31:1 to 5.38:1 and a good number of aftermarket
differentials.
1. Full-floating Dana 135
The
Dana 135 is found in some Ford F-550 medium-duty trucks and motorhomes.
It features a removable third member like a Toyota or Ford 9-inch.
However, its size is more on par with an 18-wheeler rear axle. The
massive size and heavy-duty design make it undesirable for all but the
biggest-tired Jeep swaps.
What is your Jeep's designation?
CJ: '46-'86
DJ: '56-and-up Postals
FC: '56-'65 Forward Control
KJ: '01-and-up Liberty
LJ: Wrangler Unlimited
MJ: '86-'92 Comanche
SJ: FSJs, or fullsize Jeeps, like Wagoneer, Gladiator, and M-715
TJ: '97-and-up Wranglers
VJ: '48-'50 Jeepster
WJ: '99-'04 Grand Cherokee
WK: '05 Grand Cherokee
XJ: '84-'01 Cherokee
YJ: '87-'96 Wrangler
ZJ: '93-'98 Grand Cherokee
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