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1 hour ago

offroad game, by soflmuddin

<div style="border:1px solid #5f677c; width:210px; min-height:54px; padding:4px; font: 11px verdana;" align="center">Download Off Road ArenaOff Road Arena game<br clear="all"></div>

2 days ago

rapter safari, by soflmuddin

4 days ago

power stearing pump mod, by soflmuddin

this increases flow and volume

start by removing the fitting out of the back of the pump
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1141/82809885jk9.jpg

use a 1" socket
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2074/58967804fe0.jpg

use a magnet and pick to remove the fitting the spring and the flow piston
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/9373/50168016qj3.jpg

then put the flow piston in a vise and removed the end cap with a 7/16 box end wrench

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6474/12310201rd6.jpg
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/3567/93644853ds6.jpg

what you will find inside is a spring a ball bering a limiting stud and a shim (not shown, looks like a little washer). discard the shim. file off a little (about the thickness of the shim) from the small side of the limiting stud. and re assemble. Also stretch the big spring from the pump to 2.5"

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/4761/90376263jd8.jpg

drill out the main hole in the fitting to about 5/32 or one size bigger than it is now.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5333/71646781ox4.jpg

there is an existing hole in the top of it so used the same size bit and made that hole go through both sides

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/1783/72480019oj3.jpg

then take a hacksaw and cut it to a slot

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6946/23775332of1.jpg

reinstall spring then piston then fitting back into the pump

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/759/10xl9.jpg

4 days ago

welderator, by soflmuddin

Weldernator
start with an older style gm alternator as these are the easiest to convert.
First thing you do is remove the bolts that hold the case together. then seperate the two halfs.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/9859/94458020xe9.jpg
you will not mod this side so just set it aside for now.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1779/56608225ui6.jpg
this is the half where we will do the mods
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/1954/29272845ge0.jpg
you will be removing: top right is the capacitor, the top center and upper left is the exciter diode and components and the lower screw we will remove the plastic insulation.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4061/17980008sl7.jpg
remove the copper winding
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/7594/94483865xt9.jpg
remove the capicator and exciter diode and its components.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4326/16329184ks6.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2585/49653302ku8.jpg
remove the insulation from the screw

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8687/73615834dw3.jpg
here is what you end up with

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5374/28750234kd9.jpg
then you slide the brushes back in the holder and put a very small drill bit in there to keep them in place while you put it back together
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/1247/00kw7.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8233/11qt3.jpg
after the case is reassembled then you can remove the bit and the brushes will contact the shaft

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7707/22qy7.jpg
You need a master on/off switch for the welder. Since the rotor can draw 4 or 5 Amps easily, a relay is in order. The system in the diagram uses an 'accessory' supply through a switch.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4483/33cm4.gif
That switch activates a relay that let 12V from the battery go directly to the rotor.
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/445/44yx2.jpg
Now for the business end... Get two lengths of welding cable with ring terminals at one end. Bolt on one ring terminal to the + output of the welder. On the back of the new welder, there is a threaded hole. Use this to bolt on the other ring terminal.
make up some quick connect leads

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/6048/55cw0.jpg
make a bracket to hold the truck side leads. then weld the bracket to the core support
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8189/66zj8.jpg
http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9678/77yb3.jpg
now you just plug the leads in and weld. remember to reverse polarity if welding on your own rig.

video of it in action.........

1 week ago

Re: New project samurai, by lostj

2 weeks ago

DUNE BUGGY, by soflmuddin

<table><tr><td valign=top>Dune Buggy<br>Dune Buggy is an awesome game once you get the hang of it. Check out the instructions for the advanced controls.<br clear=all></td></tr></table>

2 weeks ago

OFFROAD ARENA, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

4x4 rally, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

4 wheel madness, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

offroad madness, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

monster truck rampage, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

southrider, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

sandrail, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

miamimudding86f250, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

drag link/track bar tech, by soflmuddin

Linking your solid-axle front end can be quite an ordeal, and one of the hardest parts of it will be trying to get your track bar, aka Panhard rod, and steering drag link to line up correctly and create zero bump-steer during the suspension movement.

As your suspension oscillates, the track bar (connected to the vehicle frame on one side and the front axle on the other side) positions the axle laterally. As the track bar flattens out, it pushes the axle toward the passenger side (assuming you have a left-hand driving vehicle and your track bar is descending from the driver side). The more angle the track bar sees, the more it will pull the axle over to the driver side as it drops out. The axle not only moves up and down but also side to side with suspension movement. You want to make sure that the drag link follows the same path that the track bar does, or you will have a push or pull effect, known as bumpsteer, on your steering wheel.

If you are building from scratch, there are three important rules to remember:

1.) First off, and most importantly, you'll want to keep the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible. Keeping the bars parallel to each other will help keep them following the same arc. If the angle of one is greater than the other, then the track-bar pull on the axle will not match the drag-link pull on the knuckle, and you will find the truck steering itself during suspension travel (bumpsteer).

2.) Secondly, you'll ideally want the track bar and drag link as close to the same length as you can. From experience, we have learned that having the drag link and track bar a bit different in lengths is not as big of a deal as having parallel links is. We have had multiple good experiences with different-length drag links and track bars, as long as they were parallel with each other. But theoretically, if one bar is shorter than the other, then it will change angles faster or slower than the other bar, therefore leading to bumpsteer.

3.) Lastly, you want to try to keep both the drag link and track bar at an angle almost parallel with the axlehousing at ride height. The steeper and more severe the angle on the track bar and drag link, the more difficult steering input will be, and the more the axle will move from side to side during suspension cycling. Ideally, you want your axle moving side to side as little as possible.

It took us three different tries to get this '02 solid-axle-swapped Chevy's front end right, but sometimes it can be very difficult lining everything up and finding the right parts to get the job done correctly. Finally, after trying to cobble different things together to get our front end corrected, we went to the solid-axle-swap specialists. The guys at Off Road Unlimited (ORU) have been doing solid-axle swaps for years and fixed our solid-axle Chevy using one of their crossover-steering kits and ORU track bars on our front Ford Dana 60.

Drag-Link/Track-Bar Checklist

_ The flatter the links are, the better
_ The more parallel the drag link and track bar are, the better
_ The closer the track-bar length to the drag-link length, the better

2 weeks ago

diffs explained, by soflmuddin

Got Traction?

In the sport of offroading almost inevitably the conversation turns to improving performance. When offroad an important keyword is traction. Better traction generally boils down to four components, your tires. Quality tires designed for offroad make a world of difference in your ability to find traction and have fun. But if a tire is not turning due to a lack of power being sent to that tire, the best tires in the world won't help you. That's where the right differential makes a difference. This article will attempt to explain what role your differential plays in traction and the different types of differentials available on the market and how they will affect your vehicle's traction and handling characteristics.

The Differential

The differential in a vehicle is located in what is sometimes called the "pumpkin", or that center section of the front or rear axle that intersects with the drive shaft. Within that center part of the axle is contained the differential.

In a vehicle, the differential usually consisting of a set of gears, that allows each of the driving wheels to rotate. The gears convert the rotating motion of the driveshaft or drive train and split power to each of the driving axle shafts of that axle. In 4 wheel drive vehicles there are two differentials, one in the rear axle and one in the front axle.

The differential has three jobs. It directs engine power to the wheels. It acts as the final gear reduction in the vehicle, slowing the rotational speed of the transmission (and transfer case of 4 wheel drive vehicles) before it hits the wheels. The differential also transmits the power to the wheels while allowing them to rotate at different speeds, thus the term "differential".

The main purpose of the differential is to allow each half of the axle (each tire) to spin at different speeds, while supplying an equal amount of force to each wheel in that axle. The need for the wheels to rotate at different speeds is especially apparent when turning corners. When cornering the inner wheel travels a shorter distance than the outer wheel. With an open differential they both propel the vehicle forward with equal force, so long as both wheels remain in contact with the road and have traction. However if one wheel slips, for instance on ice, more torque is sent to the wheel that spins. If that slipping wheel completely looses traction, all power will be sent to that wheel and you have no forward momentum. When offroad, this is where the common open differential fails to remain effective. When offroad there are many situations where a wheel will spin free. In most stock 4x4 vehicles the common Open Differential can be found in both the front and rear axles. When a wheel in the front AND a wheel in the back are allowed to spin free due to the Open Differentials, that 4x4 is essentially a 2 wheel drive vehicle. One front wheel, and one back wheel. This is where other types of differentials will make drastic improvements to traction.

Types of Differentials

Differentials can be generally classified into 4 categories. Open Differentials, Limited Slip Differentials, Locking Differentials and Spools. Spools are really just the elimination of the differential, so really, there are three categories.

Beyond the open differential, the various types of "non-open" differentials will provide varying degrees of limiting of the spin or slip of an open differential. What also varies is the feel of these differentials, which translates into varying degrees of handling characteristics on road and offroad.

Open / Standard Carrier Differential

The standard differential, or what is referred to as an open carrier, is what comes with most OEM vehicles. The open carrier holds the ring gear in place and within the open carrier is generally a set of gears called spider gears. These spider gears are responsible for allowing a vehicle to negotiate a turn and allow the outside wheel to travel farther and turn faster than the inside wheel. This type of open design works great for most of vehicles on the road today. However when a vehicle with an open differential meets a lack of traction, it directs power to the wheel with the least amount of resistance. The result is the wheel on the traction-less surface spins free, while the opposite wheel of that axle on the better traction surface provides little or no power.

Limited Slip Differentials, Posi-Traction (Posi, Posis)

Limited Slip and positraction (posi) differentials are designed to "limit" the tendency of open differential to send power to a wheel that lacks traction and redirect the power to a degree to the other wheel of the axle. The Limited Slip and Positraction differential will send power to both wheels equally when traveling straight, however when one wheel spins due to a lack of traction, the differential will automatically provide torque to the other wheel with traction. Limited Slip and Positraction (posi) differentials limit the loss of torque to a slipping wheel through various mechanisms such as clutches, gears cones, and other methods dependant on the unit. The limited slip and positraction will not provide 100% lock up of the differential in extreme situations such as when a wheel completely looses traction. Limited Slip and Positraction (posi) differentials are recommended for daily driven vehicles and are used in many applications where traction is sometimes needed as in emergency vehicles. They are also ideal for front axles of 4x4 vehicles that are not equipped with front hubs that can be disengaged. The term "positraction" ("posi" for short) was used by General Motors years ago for their limited slip differential and has been used to refer to limited slips since.

CLUTCH-TYPE LIMITED SLIP
GEAR-DRIVEN LIMITED SLIP

Lockers, Locking Differentials

A locking differential or "Locker" uses a mechanism that allows left and right wheels to "lock" relative to each other and turn at the same speed regardless of which axle has traction and regardless of how little traction a slipping wheel has. In this state, the axle acts more as a "Spool". This means traction can be sent to a wheel that may be planted firmly on the ground while the other wheel of the axle is completely off the ground. In this situation an open differential will spin the free (lifted) wheel sending absolutely no torque to the wheel in the ground. A limited slip in this situation will send some torque to the wheel on the ground but possibly no enough to provide any forward momentum.

Lockers use various mechanisms to provide lock-up and can be divided into two categories, Automatic Lockers and On-Command, or selectable Lockers.

Automatic Lockers:

Automatic locking differentials are designed to lock both wheels of an axle automatically when torque is applied so that both wheels are providing power. When torque is not being applied such as when the clutch is press down, the differential is allowed to unlock, permitting a variance in wheel speed while negotiating turns. Automatic lockers tend to create odd handling characteristics on the street as they lock and unlock and take some getting used to.

Detroit Locker - Automatic Lockers

Lock-Right Locker

Detroit EZ Locker

Aussie Locker

Lunchbox Lockers - What is a Lunchbox Locker?

What are Lincoln Locker & Fozzy Lockers?

On-Command Lockers (Selectable, Manually Operated):

On-command lockers are the best of both worlds providing the benefits of a locking differential and an open differential. An on-command locker uses a switch activated electric motor or vacuum diaphragm or a cable / lever to engage the locker. When an on-command locker is not engaged, it acts like a standard open differential with none of the quirky handling characteristics of an automatic locker. When the on-command locker is engaged, the differential locks the axle shafts together where it is now more like a spool with no differential of speed between the wheels of that axle. Some OEM on-command locker designs are available on the market including 1998 and newer Toyota Tacoma and Land Cruiser and the Jeep TJ and JK Rubicons.

ELECTRIC SELECTABLE LOCKER:

Toyota TRD Locker
Auburn Gear Electronic Locker ECTED

PNEUMATIC SELECTABLE LOCKER:

ARB Air Locker - About ARB Air Lockers
How the ARB Air Locker works

MECHANICALLY ACTUATED:

Ox Locker - About OX Lockers
How the OX Locker Works

Spools, Mini Spools

Spools are actually the lack of a differential. Spools are a 100% lock-up between both wheels of an axle all the time. Spools are generally used for racing and serious offroad use where little or no street driving is seen by the vehicle and a stronger, lighter rear end is needed.

Other sources of axle differential information:

Detriot EZ Locker Install

www.ringpinion.com

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_(mechanical_device)

Introduction To Gearing by Trails Less Traveled

www.houseofthud.com/differentials.htm

www.drivingfast.net/technology/Differentials.htm

auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

2 weeks ago

glow in the dark dew., by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

REDNECK OLYMPICS, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

Re: SONIC, by soflmuddin

2 weeks ago

SONIC, by soflmuddin

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