Re: REDNECK YACHT CLUB NOVEMBER 2009

November 18, 2009 by soflmuddin

very good event. no problems with the amount of people there. well organized.

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz74/ExploderJohnATR/RYC%2011-13-09/RYC-TGW11-13-09234.jpghttp://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz74/ExploderJohnATR/RYC%2011-13-09/RYC-TGW11-13-09260.jpg

offroading 101

October 4, 2009 by soflmuddin

[CENTER][SIZE="5"]How to wheel in Rocks, Mud, Snow, and Sand[/SIZE]
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Let's start off by saying who this story is not for. If you've worn out three sets of mud-terrains. If you have ever built a lower control arm from scrap iron on the trail. If you not only know how to change a front axleshaft assembly, but can do it in 30 minutes or less. If more than half of your truck's body parts have trail damage on them, then this article is not for you.

Okay - are they all gone? The guys who are already "in the club?" This article is for the rest of you - for guys just starting to explore and enjoy the off-road pastime. And it can be a bit intimidating. First, there's a whole new language to learn - like all of the tech and components, for example. Secondly, it seems like there's some unofficial club that you're only part of if you have a mullet, a tank top, and a truck that loses parts on the freeway. Don't be scared - we've all sported mullets at one time or another, and the tank top is optional. And after you've beaten your truck for a while, parts will just fall off naturally. Like being the stranger at the local bar - it takes a little bit of time before you are one of the boys.

We were reminded of this when we went to the Mounds Off-Road Vehicle Area in Mt. Morris, Michigan, to take some photographs for this article. Not being a regular, and showing up in a nearly new Wrangler with 35s on it, we looked completely like someone we would have nicknamed "Visa" or "Mastercard" a few years ago - someone new to the sport with a few fresh parts bolted onto their new 4x4. We had no idea where we were going, and we had no intention of getting stuck, which made us look even more awkward. So let us guide you, and help you into the unofficial 4x4 club of knowing the basics of off-road driving.

We're going to give you the basics of driving off-road on these four main types of terrain: rocks, sand, mud, and snow. We'll toss out our first disclaimer right now: there are countless variations of each of these terrains. Are we talking Big Bear, California, mud, or are we talking Montgomery, Alabama, mud? While these are totally different, there are some basic driving techniques that will at least get you into off-roading. You'll develop a sense for what works best with your own home grown-flavor of wheeling as you gain experience.

So let's lock the hubs (more of a figure of speech these days) and hit the dirt!

Universal Advice
One size does not fit all, and generally what works well on rocks doesn't work well on sand. In fact, you'll find by the end of this article, that many of the techniques for sand, mud and snow are very similar. Use these same driving styles on rocks, though, and you'll end up with a whole lot of broken parts. But, there are some things that are universal, or nearly universal. This includes tire choices, running lower air pressure in your tires and basic trail rules. This also includes never going alone. If you're in the middle of nowhere, you can end up stranded and become a statistic in the most extreme situations.

Before you go off road anywhere, there are a few things that you need to make sure you have with you. It's common trail etiquette that you bring your own - even if everyone else has one too.

The first group of must-haves is all about changing a flat tire on the trail, starting with a full-size spare. Laughing? You'd be surprised how many people lift their truck and cheap-out on buying a full size spare. If you needed four 35s to get into whatever mess killed a tire, you'll need four 35s to get out of it too! Here's another favorite thing to overlook if you've changed wheels and lugnuts - make sure you have the correct lugwrench to actually change a tire. And, the final tire-related tool is a jack. If you have put bigger tires on your truck, the stock jack probably won't lift the vehicle high enough to change a tire. This, and the uneven terrain on which you're usually trying to use a jack off road, is why the Hi-Lift jack is so popular.
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In every type of four wheeling, lowering the air pressure in your tires will improve traction. You'll need a few tools to help you do this: namely a gauge that shows lower pressures accurately and a device to release air from the tires more quickly than pushing the ignition key against the Schrader valve. There are quite a few versions of both, including very trick, very expensive tools, and very simple, not-so-expensive ones. How much air you let out depends on what type of terrain you're on, what type of vehicle you're in, and a bit of personal experience. We'll give you some guidelines in each section on specific terrain. If you're new the sport, it's also likely that you don't have an air-compressor on board (and forget about those little electric ones at Wal-Mart - you'll be there for days trying to air back up with these). How much you air down also depends on how far you'll need to drive before you can air back up. If there's a gas station with a working air compressor a block or two away from your off-road spot, you can air down quite a bit more than if your drive includes any highway speeds.
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The last items you must have before you go off road are your own tow trap and suitable attachment points front and rear on your truck. While it seems a bit crazy to have so many tow straps on the trail, there are some good reasons for this. First, no one wants to wait while a tow strap is tracked down. Second, you don't want to trust someone else's cut and tattered strap to pull your truck out. Next, things move around on the trail, and you might not come home with your strap if it's the only one on a trail with ten other rigs. Finally, straps get beat up and dirty when used, and it's up to you take care of your own equipment rather than trashing someone else's and letting them clean it up when they get home. For attachment points, a factory tow hook on the front and rear are fine, although tow hooks on the rear aren't that common from the factory. If you truck has a receiver hitch, you can purchase a receiver clevis from an off-road supply company or some hardware and tractor stores. These slide into the receiver and accept a clevis to attach a tow strap. If you don't have a tow hook on the front, do some research and find out how to safely and securely mount one on your truck.
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Finally, you don't have to have off-road tires to go off road. But, when you're ready to change tires, here are some things to consider. First, it's true that bigger is better. Taller tires give you more ground clearance. And you'll soon realize that more ground clearance is good. A wider tire helps glide over sand and snow, while a narrow tire will tend to dig down more quickly. Tires designed for off-road use generally have much stronger sidewall construction compared to run-of-the-mill street tires. It was amazing to us when we started off-roading to see just how easy tires get cut on tree roots and rocks. Finally, the lug pattern makes a huge difference in off-road performance. A mud terrain tire is a great all-purpose off road tire, giving a stock vehicle a very noticeable improvement in capability in all types of terrain.http://offroad.automotive.com/117619/0911or-off-roading-101-how-to-wheel-in-rocks-mud-sand-and-snow/off-roading-mud-and-snow.html

[SIZE="3"]Rocks[/SIZE]
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We used to think that rocks were native only to the Southwest, but the reality is that rocks are everywhere. And rockcrawling is popular coast-to-coast. So here's the short list of driving techniques that will maximize your fun and minimize the damage to your 4x4.

A rocky section is the one type of terrain where speed is not your friend. That's why it's called rockcrawling. It's all about finesse - choosing the right line and getting your tires to go exactly where you think they ought to. If you attack rocks with speed and/or wheel-speed, you can't control where your vehicle will end up, and it's nearly always a loud and painful breaking experience.

We'll oversimplify rocks for now. The driving technique for rocks is picking a line - where your tires will go - that will get you through. This is why it's called technical. You have to estimate exactly where all four of your tires will go as you drive over an obstacle. You also have to figure out if your back tires will have the same line, or if they will veer off to one side or another as your front tires steer.
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Remember geometry from middle school or high school? Use it to quickly imagine triangles under your truck. Do this in the front and rear (approach and departure angles) to see if you have enough clearance to get the metal parts of your rig over the rock so your tires can meet them. You'll also need to become aware of what point in between the front and rear tires will contact, or clear, the rocks that you drive over. This is called the break-over angle. This will likely be a trail-and-error deal. You don't have to actually measure any of these angles, but you do have to get a feeling for how much space and what angles your truck has so you can estimate from the driver's seat whether you'll be able to clear trail obstacles.

And then there's a bit of physics. Will certain rocks you drive over teeter totter as you traverse them? If you use the sidewall of the tire, will it push your 4x4 to the side, or climb the rock?

Finally, there's the back up plan. If you your tires slip, which way will the truck slide? And how far? Will you be able to drive out of it? There's a lot to think about, but that's why it's so challenging. And the less likely you are to make it through something, the more rewarding it is when you do.

[SIZE="3"]Sand[/SIZE]
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If off-roading on rocks is about technique and equipment, then sand is about momentum and reading the dune. This is also a terrain that you can have a lot of fun on with a stock vehicle, especially if it's an SUV with a V-8.
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But sand can also be evil. Dunes change every time the wind blows. If you're having a blast on one specific dune on Saturday, it may be a completely different dune the next day. Don't trust sand.

Also, pay careful attention to the other side of a dune. There are two things to be watchful of. One is to make sure there aren't vehicles or people on the other side. Some areas require vehicles to have tall orange flag whips which make it easier to see them on the other side of dunes. The other thing to watch is if the dune falls away on the other side. Regardless of how many safety items you have, caution is still smart. Typically, dunes have a gradual side with a sharp drop off on the other side (razorback). We've seen drops of more than 50 feet, which will mess you up badly if you crest the top with speed. And just because you see people going over the dune in one spot, does not mean it's safe twenty feet to the left or to the right. There are two ways to check this out. One is to drive around to the other side of the dune. That's not always possible, so the other method is to drive to the top and look before you launch your vehicle over. Get out and walk to the top and take a look.

So the key to driving on dunes is momentum. You'll need enough to mount the dune, but not so much that you go bouncing over variations in the surface. With most vehicles, you'll need to gradually let off the throttle as you climb to keep from digging in. Once your tires start spinning without moving the truck forward, it's time to abort that run. Unless you're driving a buggy with paddle tires, digging in sand will only get you stuck, or stuck worse. You also dig big holes in the dune which everyone has to drive around, which won't win you any new friends.

Leave cresting the top of dunes at 50 mph to the trophy trucks. Get to the top with just enough speed for your momentum to carry you over the dune and down the other side. Too much momentum, and you'll launch off the top; too little momentum and you'll get stuck on the way up and have to back down. Backing down a dune can be very tricky-more so than you'd think. Be very careful to back your vehicle down the dune, keeping it as straight as you can.

Sand can be a blast to drive on. The only time you'll damage sheetmetal is if you run into another 4x4 or you roll - and both are pretty easy to avoid with some common sense and good judgement.

[SIZE="3"]Mud[/SIZE]
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For more than half the country, mud is the type of terrain that you'll find at your local off-road venue. And to drive on it, er...in it, successfully, you'll need a combination of techniques from rock crawling and sand. You'll also need a boat-load of quarters for the coin-op car wash.

First, you need to understand that there are hundreds of different types of mud. Each requires a little different approach. And your mud hole can change as more vehicles drive through it and as it dries up. So think of it as constantly changing terrain that you can't really accurately read. And things hide in mud. Enjoy gambling in Vegas? Good, then you'll love 'wheeling in mud!
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Before getting into the mud hole, you'll need to pick your line. Watch someone else go through first to see how deep it is and what lies on the bottom. If they bounce around a lot, there are probably rocks or logs, or at least huge ruts in the bottom that you'll need to drive around or over. Something very important to watch is how high the water comes on the vehicle. If you have an electric fan on your 4x4, you can break fan blades, or if the air-intake is low, you can suck water into your engine, which leads to bent engine parts, leading to a very bad time off road.

Next, figure out how much speed you'll need coming into the mud hole in order to power through it and drive out. One thought is that you can drive through any mud hole if you hit it going fast enough. That may be true, but it's not necessarily the best approach. For one thing, a lot of speed means a lot of bouncing over bumpy terrain. And your tires don't do much to keep you moving forward if they are in the air.

If mudding is your sport, plan on changing every lubricant in your 4x4 a few times a year. Hot metal parts hitting cool water sucks that water and mud past the seals and mixes it with truck fluids.

[SIZE="3"]Snow[/SIZE]
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Okay, technically, snow is weather, not terrain. But it can be a blast to drive on. Especially if you have a good heater and a Thermos of hot coffee. It can also turn what would be a scenic drive in the summer time into one of the most challenging trails you've ever been on.

So, what do you need to know? First, the Eskimos supposedly have over 1,000 different names for snow, each depicting a slightly different type. We can't vouch for the validity of that statement, but the important thing is that not all snow is the same. Powder snow is more like sand to drive on, and wet snow has some characteristics of mud. You'll need to take a few tips from each of the other sections in this article, and apply them to the type of snow you find yourself in.
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Moderation in speed is the key to driving in snow. You'll need a bit of momentum to keep moving, especially if you're climbing a hill. But snow is slippery, making turning and stopping extra challenging. Too much momentum and you'll end up somewhere you didn't expect and certainly don't want to be.

Re: BAMBOO FEST MAY 2009

August 4, 2009 by soflmuddin

i doubt i will go back to bamboo fest. it is close but so is l-cross and holly mud hole. we had a good time but we can do that at the hump.

HUMP 7-25-2009

July 28, 2009 by soflmuddin

Flexing...

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REDNECK YACHT CLUB NOVEMBER 2009

July 28, 2009 by soflmuddin

...........

BAMBOO FEST MAY 2009

July 28, 2009 by soflmuddin

PLANT BAMBOO

this was ok at best. the property was spacious but it was a functioning cow field. there were numerous dead cow on the property, definitely not the nicest thing to see when your vacationing. the organizers didn't exist. when we arrived there they hadn't finished the road to access the camp grounds. there was 3 porta-potties for the whole event. the showers were unheated and were broke more than they were working. there was no concert or bonfire like the event description had said there would be. we made the best of it and we did have a good time but i would give this event a 3 of 10.

MUDDI GRAS OCTOBER 2008

July 28, 2009 by soflmuddin

this was a good trip. we had 10 people attend this event with us and an estimated 10,000 others there. the property is pretty much open. there is only one trail on the property. the mud hole was big. the organisers did a real good job. i would have to give muddi gras a 6 of 10.

Re: public parks

July 24, 2009 by soflmuddin

red neck yacht club will be!

Re: Back ground

July 18, 2009 by soflmuddin

accidentally deleted it. i have it in file but i have to review on how to alter the ccs.

Re: public parks

July 18, 2009 by soflmuddin

muddi gras, bamboo fest, and soon redneck yacht club.

Re: hump 8-3-08

July 18, 2009 by soflmuddin

we do it elsewhere............http://nolimit4wd.net/

Re: offroad videos.....

July 14, 2009 by soflmuddin

HUMP 7-5-09

July 7, 2009 by soflmuddin

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/glenndenapoli/100_2139.jpg


















[url]

Re: random videos

July 7, 2009 by soflmuddin

[url]

HUMP 6-13-09

July 7, 2009 by soflmuddin

[url]






Proof Amy is a good winch bi*ch

confederate memorabilia

June 24, 2009 by soflmuddin

http://www.confedalot.com/

Re: public parks

June 24, 2009 by soflmuddin

relax, its just info. i cant afford to go legal unless i only ride twice a year.

D.I.Y. SNORKEL

June 22, 2009 by soflmuddin

started around 8 sunday morning. was finished by 11. thats with a whole family trip to home depot.
before

 i was starting with a easy hook up.

first i cut a hole in the fender.

 mock up

because i hade already mounted battery shut off on this fender, i couldnt run paralell to body lines like i would have wanted to.



 finished product

BUILDING YOUR 4X4 FOR MUD

June 20, 2009 by soflmuddin

Mud--filthy, sticky, gooey, havoc wreaking gumbo. It may be the most divisive substance in all of wheeling. There are those who build for it, and those who avoid it at all costs. There are those wheelers who identify with it and its appeal, and there are those who stick to the rocks.

For those who love the mud, they don't mind the extra weight of the stuff when it dries, or the mud clods that fall off the truck onto the driveway, nor do they feel any suffering when it comes to wheel and drive line vibrations or the inevitable hose down of the truck at the end of the day.

To these guys, building for mud means high horsepower, low gearing, waterproofed components and big tires. There is a feeling of satisfaction that comes from meeting the challenge and a sense of accomplishment when the mud pit has been beaten into submission (or a frothy milkshake).

Driving in mud takes exceptional skill and years of experience, but where do you start if you want to build your rig to take on mud? As in any other venue of wheeling, there are different levels of building from the casual mud truck to take on a muddy trail, all the way up to hardcore, pit-thrashing racers that meet on the weekends at the local mud hole.

No matter what type of mud you want to play in, there are some basic components your rig needs, and of course these suggestions can be scaled up or down to fit your needs, but any mixture of these ideas are sure to make your vehicle more capable.

Mud Tires
A good mud tire has big biting lugs, and a open design that allows wheelspeed to self-clean the tread, giving the tires an aggressive, functional presence you just don't get from your run-of-the-mill all-terrain. While job-specific mud tires do their job amazingly well, many of us have the need for a streetable mud, which just about every major tire manufacturer offers these days, giving the vehicle mud capability on the trail but only slightly compromising the on road performance with acceptable noise levels, NVH characteristics, and handling.

Gearing
Vehicles that are properly geared are getting the most power to the ground and are less likely to bog down in the deep stuff. Some hardcore rigs that are built specifically for mud even run a slightly lower (numerically higher) gear ratio in the front of the truck to keep the front end spinning faster, helping to pull the truck through. Of course, if this is your strategy, you aren't able to use four-wheel drive on hard, high-traction surfaces because your driveline will bind and possibly break.

Traction Aids
At the bare minimum, any truck running through big mud should be running a rear locker for maximum traction. Some will argue that a front limited-slip is a perfect complement to a rear locker, allowing the driver to have more effective steering inputs, though a front locker is often the traction aid of choice in the front differential, ensuring each wheel is getting an equal amount of power.

A Friend With A Pressure Washer
At the end of the day, you'll want to hose off the mud before it dries, and a pressure washer is the perfect way to blast it away. Dry mud can cause a bevy of problems, including drying in clumps that will cause noticeable vibrations to wheels, tires and drivelines, as well as weighing down your rig, increasing fuel consumption--and if you have been wheeling in an acidic environment, the mud can be caustic to unprotected metal as it dries, quickening the rust process.

Driveline and Axles
With big tires, lockers in the front and rear, high horsepower and often a lot of things spinning fast that are not perfectly balanced over inconsistent terrain, you have a recipe for driveline or axle disaster that can include everything from dropping to pretzeling or grenading. The best solution to this problem is to make sure your drivelines get upgraded with the rest of the componentry to an appropriate size and beefier joints for the task at hand. Your truck will thank you for it.

Extended Vent Lines
For any vehicle that will be spending time in a muddy or wet environment, it is important to extend all of your vent lines high above the danger. We also suggest one-way valves or filters on the end of the line, which will help the keep the vented components from sucking in water from a rapid temperature change that can occur when a hot differential or transfer case encounters cool water or mud.

Recovery Gear
If you are going to play in the mud, it is inevitable that you are going to, at some point, need to pull out your recovery bag. Recovery tools, in addition to front and rear tow points, shackles, and a winch (or two), should include a quality strap, a line weight, and even synthetic winch line, which floats on mud rather than sinking in it like a steel cable will.

PROPER WAT TO TIE DOWN AN OFFROAD TRUCK

June 20, 2009 by soflmuddin

with the majority of us trailoring to the mud hole this is important info to read.......

People tend to ignore the "what if?" scenario because it takes additional time and money to do it right. Or in some cases, ignorance plays a part in the equation. However, one thing remains constant; Individual state laws as well as the National Transportation Safety Administration define a very specific blueprint for those of us who tow. Without reciting the actual regulation as written in the NHTSA handbook, we'll just say it like this: regardless of anchoring method (e.g., chain, ratchet strap, etc.) you must use a minimum of four individual attachment points (per vehicle) with an acceptable weight rating if you plan to tow a vehicle on our nation's roadways. That means two individual points up front and two more out back. If one strap should become loose or break altogether the opposite side is there to maintain tension on the load.

To take this one step further, we recommend that each strap or chain be attached to the opposite corner of the towed vehicle. Simply put, make an "x" at each end of the vehicle when tying down your rig. The "x" technique also ensures that the vehicle cannot move laterally on the deck of the trailer during an evasive maneuver.

Other important considerations about ratchet straps:

* When ratcheting the excess slack of a strap, be sure that the strap makes at least two complete revolutions around the spool or drum of the ratcheting mechanism; this will prevent strap slippage.

* When purchasing straps, be sure that the webbing is indeed rated for the maximum weight you intend to tow. A good rule of thumb is to size your anchoring straps to the maximum weight of your trailer, or if you have multiple trailers, use straps with roughly double the burst strength of the weight of your vehicle.

* Stick with polyester webbing material over nylon. Polyester has less of a tendency to stretch when force is applied to it.

* Develop a habit of using individual axle straps with protective sleeves at each corner.

* Make sure the ratchet straps you use have positive-locking snap-style hooks to ensure the straps stay connected in the case of a load shift.

* Never allow webbing-type tie-down straps to rub against metal or other abrasive surfaces when securing a vehicle to a trailer.

* When excess webbing material exists after the strap is tightened, be sure to tie it up to prevent it from flapping around in the wind.

* When not in use, store webbing-type tie-down straps in a location that protects them from sunlight, chemicals and moisture.

* Never rely on a winch to secure your rig to the trailer. It's bad for the winch's braking mechanism and there is no guarantee that it will hold.

link to wma's

June 16, 2009 by soflmuddin

http://myfwc.com/index/search.cgi?zoom_query=wma

Re: events

June 16, 2009 by soflmuddin

http://www.woodsnwater.net/articles/june-2009/boggin/

Boggin' in the South

OFF ROAD ACTION HEATS UP IN JUNE!

After non-stop action last month all over Florida and Georgia, June keeps the pedal on the floor with a full slate of off-road action each and every weekend somewhere close to you!
Here is a list of upcoming events:
 
June 6-7 -Shady Oak Mud Hole - Bradenton
“Mud A Palooza”
Live country bands and more will be at Shady Oak Mud Hole’s “Mud A Palooza” in Bradenton (located on Rye Road, 1.9 miles off SR-64 East). Mud will be slinging from 7 a.m. - 7 p.m. with separate mud pits for trucks and ATVs/UTVs. Events include: horseshoes, toilet lid horseshoes, mud volleyball, “Ugly Truck Contest” and “Redneck Idol.” Bands will play from 5:30-10:30 p.m. Overnight camping and concessions on site.

June 6-7 - Lake Butler, Fla.
“12 Gauge Mud Bog”
Gates open 5 p.m. Friday and close at 6 p.m. Sunday. Trucks only (No ATVs). New mud holes. Located off of CR 239A (SW 71st St.) in Lake Butler.

June 6 - Bandit Mud Racing
Bandit Mud Racing, home of the Samsula Mud Runs in New Smyrna Beach, will host mud truck racing on June 6 and ATV races on June 20. Gates open at 4 p.m., racing begins at 6 p.m. Check www.banditmudracing.com or email offroad@banditmudracing.com for more info.

June 13-14 - Boggin’ in Bunnell
“Mud ‘n Music Fest”
“Boggin’ Bunnell Mud Hole” will hold a “Mud ‘n Music Fest” featuring mud bogging and live music on June 13-14 in Bunnell, Fla. Gates open 8 a.m. The property features two mud holes (one for trucks, one for ATVs), a dry track, ATV trails, “Rubber Ball Rally” and prizes, entertainment tent and covered bleachers. Boggin’ Bunnell is open the second Saturday and Sunday of each month and is located at 7447 West Hwy 100 in Flagler County between Flagler Beach and Palatka.

June 19-21 - Mud Muckers ATV Park in Bunnell
North Florida’s newest ATV park will hold ATV muddin’ fun in Bunnell on June 19-21. The fun starts Friday at 4 p.m. Mud Muckers is a general admission, 19,000-acre ATV park located in North Central Florida, about 30 minutes north of Daytona. Open for ATV and side-by-side event riding only. No mud trucks, swamp buggies or dirt bikes allowed. The park features: 50-plus miles of trails, guided and unguided, primitive camping, portable showers, a 150-foot landing strip, 1/4-mile circle round pen, 60,000 square foot mud pit, ATV wash pit and smaller area for novice riders.

June 19-21 - L-Cross Xtreme Events
“Father’s Day Family Event”
L-Cross will be open Friday through Sunday, June 19-21 for “Father’s Day Family Weekend.” Located in Buckhead Ridge on Hwy. 78 west of Okeechobee, Fla., L-Cross is open every Sunday for riding tracks, trails and playing in the mud. For more information call 863-763-0569.

June 26 - Jesse Black’s Saloon - Orlando
“Tug O Wars”
Jesse Black’s Saloon in Orlando will host “Grudge Match Tug O Wars.” Doors open at 6 p.m. Truck pulls begin after 9 p.m.

June 28 - TGW’s at Bithlo Motorsports Park
“Hill N Hole”
Bithlo Motorsports in Orlando will host Trucks Gone Wild (TGW) “Hill N Hole” event on Sunday, June 28. Gates open at 9 a.m., races start at 12 noon. Trucks will be divided into four classes, including: 1 Ton and smaller (any tire), 2.5 Ton (7,000 lbs and under, any tire 44” and up), 2.5 Tons (7,000 lbs. and over, 44” tires and up) and all 5 Tons and Larger (includes diesels on 2.5 tons, any tire 44” and up).

events

June 16, 2009 by soflmuddin

muddi gras.................. http://www.muddigras.com/
bamboo fest................ http://bamboofestnthemud.com/default.aspx
redneck yacht club...... http://www.redneckyachtclubfl.com/
holy mud hole............. http://www.holleymudhole.com/
l cross......................... http://www.l-cross.com/
horse hole................... http://www.mudup.com/
shady oak mud hole.... http://www.myspace.com/shadyoakmudhole
pudding creek............. http://www.myspace.com/puddincreekmudbogg
kelly grade.................. http://www.myspace.com/perrymudboggs
mayakka mud fest....... http://www.myakkamudfest.com/

public parks

June 16, 2009 by soflmuddin

Florida

NORTH

Twin Rivers
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/TwinRivers.pdf
Madison, Hamilton and Suwannee Counties

Steinhatchee Springs
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/SteinhatcheeSprings.pdf
Lafayette, Dixie and Taylor Counties

Goethe
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Goethe.pdf
Levy County

Spring Creek-Big Bend
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/SpringCreek.pdf
Taylor County

NORTHEAST

Osceola National Forest
Passes required for "some activities", see link for details
http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/florida/osce....php?p=1.1.0.4
Again, no coords. It's East of Lake City on I10

Matanzas State Forest
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Matanzas.pdf
St Augustine, FL

Boggin' in Bunnell
http://www.myspace.com/bogginbunnell
Bunnell, FL

Three Lakes
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/ThreeLakes.pdf
Osceola County

Dexter Mary Farms
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Dexter.pdf
Volusia County

Osceola
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Osceola.pdf
Baker and Columbia Counties

Camp Blanding
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/CampBlanding.pdf
Clay County

NORTHWEST

Eglin Air Force Base WMA
Annual pass required. Details found in link.
http://www.myfwc.com/RECREATION/WMAS...Base_index.htm
No coordinates but it's in the panhandle East of Pensacola.

Ocean Pond Mudd Bogg & Off Road Park
http://oceanpond.net/index.php
Old Town, FL

Tri-State Off Road Park
http://www.tristateoffroadpark.com/Home.html
Clarksville, FL

CENTRAL

HardRock ORP
$25 per day park fee
www.hardrockmx.com
coordinates: 29.257035,-82.175664

Ocala National Forest (location Big Scrub Campground)
trails are free/campsite fee $12 per site
http://www.reserveamerica.com/campin...ex=CampingSpot
coordinates: 29.050964,-81.755898

Croom
permit needed (cost found on website)
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt/guide...room_motor.htm
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Croom.pdf
coordinates: 28.530545,-82.238407

Richloam
free
http://myfwc.com/RECREATION/WMASites_Richloam_index.htm
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Richloam.pdf
coordinates: 28.4997212 -82.0414697

Citrus
free
http://myfwc.com/Recreation/WMASites_Citrus_index.htm
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Citrus.pdf
coordinates: 28.79193 -82.39565

Suburban Estates
You have to be a property owner or be with someone who is to get in.
www.suburbanestates.net
intersection of 441 & 192 in Holopaw.

Bubbas Mud Ranch
863) 668-5533
1085 US Hwy 92 E
Auburndale, FL 33823

Caravelle Ranch
http://myfwc.com/docs/Brochures/CaravelleRanch.pdf
Putnam and Marion Counties

Three Lakes
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/ThreeLakes.pdf

Dexter Mary Farms
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Dexter.pdf

Caravelle Ranch
http://myfwc.com/docs/Brochures/CaravelleRanch.pdf

Twin Rivers
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/TwinRivers.pdf

Steinhatchee Springs
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/SteinhatcheeSprings.pdf

Osceola
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Osceola.pdf

Goethe(looks really wet)
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Goethe.pdf

Camp Blanding
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/CampBlanding.pdf

Spring Creek-Big Bend
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/SpringCreek.pdf

Triple Canopy Ranch
http://www.triplecanopyranch.com/

SOUTH

Bear Island
permit needed (cost found on website)
http://www.nps.gov/bicy
coordinates: 26.174104,-80.856017

SOUTHEAST

J.W. Corbett Wildlife Area
$3 entry fee per person ($6 max per vehicle)
http://www.myfwc.com/Recreation/WMAS...hentovisit.htm
coordinates: 26.853668,-80.292689

L-Cross Extreme
http://www.l-cross.com/
Okeechobee, FL

SOUTH WEST

Babcok Webb Wildlife Area
$3 entry fee per person ($6 max per vehicle)
http://myfwc.com/RECREATION/WMASites...Webb_index.htm
coordinates: 26.844899,-81.940897

Redneck Yacht Club
fees are located on website
http://redneckyachtclubfl.com/
coordinates: 26.945287,-81.706562

C & R Motorsports Park
http://www.crmotorsportspark.com/
75 Brahma Rd, Venus, FL 33960

OTHERS

301 Mud Hole
http://www.myspace.com/468395090

C & R Motorsports Park
75 Brahma Rd, Venus, FL 33960
http://www.crmotorsportspark.com/

Bubbas Mud Ranch
863) 668-5533
1085 US Hwy 92 E
Auburndale, FL 33823

Hog waller Mud Bog
http://www.hogwallermudbog.com/

Horse Hole Mud Bog
http://www.mudup.com/

L-Cross Extreme
Okeechobee, FL
http://www.l-cross.com/

Lawtey mud bog
Bradford county off of 301.. It runs every Sunday at 10:00 a.m. until dark

Shady Oak mud hole
http://www.myspace.com/437361606

Boggin' in Bunnell
Bunnell, FL
http://www.myspace.com/bogginbunnell

Matanzas State Forest
St Augustine, FL
http://myfwc.com/docs/brochures/Matanzas.pdf

Ocean Pond Mudd Bogg & Off Road Park
Old Town, FL
http://oceanpond.net/index.php

Tri-State Off Road Park
Clarksville, FL
http://www.tristateoffroadpark.com/Home.html
Apalchicola National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/florida/apalachicola/recreation/ohv.overview.php?p=1.1.3.1

Big Cypress National Preserve
http://www.nps.gov/bicy/planyourvisit/orv-use.htm

Hard Rock
http://www.hardrockmx.com/

Ocala National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/florida/ocala/recreation/ohv.overview.php?p=1.1.3.1

Osceola National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r8/florida/osceola/recreation/ohv.overview.php?p=1.1.4.1

HUMP 6-13-09

June 14, 2009 by soflmuddin

pics coming but here the run down. started out as usual, a cluster fuc. we arrived sometime around 11. got to the power line when i recieved a call from jake that he was "broke down" on the main grade in his daily driver. me and Amy swung back around to help him, really just hang out.. the rest of the group hung out/got stuck around the power lines. jake dried out and me and amy went to the power lines where everybody played for a couple of minutes. we stopped drank and bs while Chris, southern swampers, got stuck and somehow broke, really broke, his starter. i went to help him and got the samurai almost on its side in a easy hole. note to self...wheel placement is everything. chris got the starter out, ran to the auto parts store. meanwhile amy decided to take the samurai through the loader hole. made it almost half way when it stalled and the starter didnt work. 85bronco hooked up to the samurai from the outside of the loader hole and pulled the samurai about 10 feet and got the bronco stuck. i unhooked the samurai and smacked the starter, amy fired it up and made it all the way out of the loader. rest of the day went pretty good, we went to the crossroads at the end of hump road swung back around, jumped over the drop off to the power lines where we played a little. ended the day at the rock quarry. good ride.

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