soflmuddin's Blog

<table><tr><td valign=top>Dune Buggy<br>Dune Buggy is an awesome game once you get the hang of it. Check out the instructions for the advanced controls.<br clear=all></td></tr></table>

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<BR>Myspace Game Codes

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<br />Offroad Madness Flash game

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Linking your solid-axle front end can be quite an ordeal, and one of the hardest parts of it will be trying to get your track bar, aka Panhard rod, and steering drag link to line up correctly and create zero bump-steer during the suspension movement.

As your suspension oscillates, the track bar (connected to the vehicle frame on one side and the front axle on the other side) positions the axle laterally. As the track bar flattens out, it pushes the axle toward the passenger side (assuming you have a left-hand driving vehicle and your track bar is descending from the driver side). The more angle the track bar sees, the more it will pull the axle over to the driver side as it drops out. The axle not only moves up and down but also side to side with suspension movement. You want to make sure that the drag link follows the same path that the track bar does, or you will have a push or pull effect, known as bumpsteer, on your steering wheel.

If you are building from scratch, there are three important rules to remember:

1.) First off, and most importantly, you'll want to keep the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible. Keeping the bars parallel to each other will help keep them following the same arc. If the angle of one is greater than the other, then the track-bar pull on the axle will not match the drag-link pull on the knuckle, and you will find the truck steering itself during suspension travel (bumpsteer).

2.) Secondly, you'll ideally want the track bar and drag link as close to the same length as you can. From experience, we have learned that having the drag link and track bar a bit different in lengths is not as big of a deal as having parallel links is. We have had multiple good experiences with different-length drag links and track bars, as long as they were parallel with each other. But theoretically, if one bar is shorter than the other, then it will change angles faster or slower than the other bar, therefore leading to bumpsteer.

3.) Lastly, you want to try to keep both the drag link and track bar at an angle almost parallel with the axlehousing at ride height. The steeper and more severe the angle on the track bar and drag link, the more difficult steering input will be, and the more the axle will move from side to side during suspension cycling. Ideally, you want your axle moving side to side as little as possible.

It took us three different tries to get this '02 solid-axle-swapped Chevy's front end right, but sometimes it can be very difficult lining everything up and finding the right parts to get the job done correctly. Finally, after trying to cobble different things together to get our front end corrected, we went to the solid-axle-swap specialists. The guys at Off Road Unlimited (ORU) have been doing solid-axle swaps for years and fixed our solid-axle Chevy using one of their crossover-steering kits and ORU track bars on our front Ford Dana 60.

Drag-Link/Track-Bar Checklist

_ The flatter the links are, the better
_ The more parallel the drag link and track bar are, the better
_ The closer the track-bar length to the drag-link length, the better

Got Traction?

In the sport of offroading almost inevitably the conversation turns to improving performance. When offroad an important keyword is traction. Better traction generally boils down to four components, your tires. Quality tires designed for offroad make a world of difference in your ability to find traction and have fun. But if a tire is not turning due to a lack of power being sent to that tire, the best tires in the world won't help you. That's where the right differential makes a difference. This article will attempt to explain what role your differential plays in traction and the different types of differentials available on the market and how they will affect your vehicle's traction and handling characteristics.

The Differential

The differential in a vehicle is located in what is sometimes called the "pumpkin", or that center section of the front or rear axle that intersects with the drive shaft. Within that center part of the axle is contained the differential.

In a vehicle, the differential usually consisting of a set of gears, that allows each of the driving wheels to rotate. The gears convert the rotating motion of the driveshaft or drive train and split power to each of the driving axle shafts of that axle. In 4 wheel drive vehicles there are two differentials, one in the rear axle and one in the front axle.

The differential has three jobs. It directs engine power to the wheels. It acts as the final gear reduction in the vehicle, slowing the rotational speed of the transmission (and transfer case of 4 wheel drive vehicles) before it hits the wheels. The differential also transmits the power to the wheels while allowing them to rotate at different speeds, thus the term "differential".

The main purpose of the differential is to allow each half of the axle (each tire) to spin at different speeds, while supplying an equal amount of force to each wheel in that axle. The need for the wheels to rotate at different speeds is especially apparent when turning corners. When cornering the inner wheel travels a shorter distance than the outer wheel. With an open differential they both propel the vehicle forward with equal force, so long as both wheels remain in contact with the road and have traction. However if one wheel slips, for instance on ice, more torque is sent to the wheel that spins. If that slipping wheel completely looses traction, all power will be sent to that wheel and you have no forward momentum. When offroad, this is where the common open differential fails to remain effective. When offroad there are many situations where a wheel will spin free. In most stock 4x4 vehicles the common Open Differential can be found in both the front and rear axles. When a wheel in the front AND a wheel in the back are allowed to spin free due to the Open Differentials, that 4x4 is essentially a 2 wheel drive vehicle. One front wheel, and one back wheel. This is where other types of differentials will make drastic improvements to traction.

Types of Differentials

Differentials can be generally classified into 4 categories. Open Differentials, Limited Slip Differentials, Locking Differentials and Spools. Spools are really just the elimination of the differential, so really, there are three categories.

Beyond the open differential, the various types of "non-open" differentials will provide varying degrees of limiting of the spin or slip of an open differential. What also varies is the feel of these differentials, which translates into varying degrees of handling characteristics on road and offroad.

Open / Standard Carrier Differential

The standard differential, or what is referred to as an open carrier, is what comes with most OEM vehicles. The open carrier holds the ring gear in place and within the open carrier is generally a set of gears called spider gears. These spider gears are responsible for allowing a vehicle to negotiate a turn and allow the outside wheel to travel farther and turn faster than the inside wheel. This type of open design works great for most of vehicles on the road today. However when a vehicle with an open differential meets a lack of traction, it directs power to the wheel with the least amount of resistance. The result is the wheel on the traction-less surface spins free, while the opposite wheel of that axle on the better traction surface provides little or no power.

Limited Slip Differentials, Posi-Traction (Posi, Posis)

Limited Slip and positraction (posi) differentials are designed to "limit" the tendency of open differential to send power to a wheel that lacks traction and redirect the power to a degree to the other wheel of the axle. The Limited Slip and Positraction differential will send power to both wheels equally when traveling straight, however when one wheel spins due to a lack of traction, the differential will automatically provide torque to the other wheel with traction. Limited Slip and Positraction (posi) differentials limit the loss of torque to a slipping wheel through various mechanisms such as clutches, gears cones, and other methods dependant on the unit. The limited slip and positraction will not provide 100% lock up of the differential in extreme situations such as when a wheel completely looses traction. Limited Slip and Positraction (posi) differentials are recommended for daily driven vehicles and are used in many applications where traction is sometimes needed as in emergency vehicles. They are also ideal for front axles of 4x4 vehicles that are not equipped with front hubs that can be disengaged. The term "positraction" ("posi" for short) was used by General Motors years ago for their limited slip differential and has been used to refer to limited slips since.

CLUTCH-TYPE LIMITED SLIP
GEAR-DRIVEN LIMITED SLIP

Lockers, Locking Differentials

A locking differential or "Locker" uses a mechanism that allows left and right wheels to "lock" relative to each other and turn at the same speed regardless of which axle has traction and regardless of how little traction a slipping wheel has. In this state, the axle acts more as a "Spool". This means traction can be sent to a wheel that may be planted firmly on the ground while the other wheel of the axle is completely off the ground. In this situation an open differential will spin the free (lifted) wheel sending absolutely no torque to the wheel in the ground. A limited slip in this situation will send some torque to the wheel on the ground but possibly no enough to provide any forward momentum.

Lockers use various mechanisms to provide lock-up and can be divided into two categories, Automatic Lockers and On-Command, or selectable Lockers.

Automatic Lockers:

Automatic locking differentials are designed to lock both wheels of an axle automatically when torque is applied so that both wheels are providing power. When torque is not being applied such as when the clutch is press down, the differential is allowed to unlock, permitting a variance in wheel speed while negotiating turns. Automatic lockers tend to create odd handling characteristics on the street as they lock and unlock and take some getting used to.

Detroit Locker - Automatic Lockers

Lock-Right Locker

Detroit EZ Locker

Aussie Locker

Lunchbox Lockers - What is a Lunchbox Locker?

What are Lincoln Locker & Fozzy Lockers?

On-Command Lockers (Selectable, Manually Operated):

On-command lockers are the best of both worlds providing the benefits of a locking differential and an open differential. An on-command locker uses a switch activated electric motor or vacuum diaphragm or a cable / lever to engage the locker. When an on-command locker is not engaged, it acts like a standard open differential with none of the quirky handling characteristics of an automatic locker. When the on-command locker is engaged, the differential locks the axle shafts together where it is now more like a spool with no differential of speed between the wheels of that axle. Some OEM on-command locker designs are available on the market including 1998 and newer Toyota Tacoma and Land Cruiser and the Jeep TJ and JK Rubicons.

ELECTRIC SELECTABLE LOCKER:

Toyota TRD Locker
Auburn Gear Electronic Locker ECTED

PNEUMATIC SELECTABLE LOCKER:

ARB Air Locker - About ARB Air Lockers
How the ARB Air Locker works

MECHANICALLY ACTUATED:

Ox Locker - About OX Lockers
How the OX Locker Works

Spools, Mini Spools

Spools are actually the lack of a differential. Spools are a 100% lock-up between both wheels of an axle all the time. Spools are generally used for racing and serious offroad use where little or no street driving is seen by the vehicle and a stronger, lighter rear end is needed.

Other sources of axle differential information:

Detriot EZ Locker Install

www.ringpinion.com

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_(mechanical_device)

Introduction To Gearing by Trails Less Traveled

www.houseofthud.com/differentials.htm

www.drivingfast.net/technology/Differentials.htm

auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

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<table><tr><td valign=top>Monster Truck Curfew<br>Feel the power of a monster truck with this fun flash game. Drive down the city streets crushing the cars that get in your way.<br clear=all></td></tr></table>
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<BR>Myspace Game Codes

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making a link so that its here for anybody who needs it.........
http://www.4wheelparts.com/wheelTirePackage.aspx#

From the Ford Model A to the new Jeep JK our historic obsession with jamming on bigger knobbies has been born out of both necessity and fun. Though there's always that little voice whispering "bigger is better," sometimes a couple of inches are all you really need to increase your rig's trail performance without breaking the bank and draining the pump. Like most wheeling enthusiasts, we look to what others have had success with and suspension manufacturer's guides, and, when all else fails, we venture into uncharted waters with a little bit of blind faith and a Sawzall. In our search to gather the most accurate data on fitting taller tires, we've found that there are no clear-cut answers for every vehicle. From rockcrawling Wranglers with only 2 inches of lift and 40-inch tires to mud-stomping Jeeps with 10 inches and the same size meat, it's tough to make the final call when it comes to what's right for your rig. So please feel free to use this as a guide, as you may see that you might not need any lift if you are willing to trim, or if you're not ready to peal back that sheetmetal you may want to err on the side of caution and give your truck the suggested amount of boost.

Wheel Of Fortune
Backspacing, tire width, and fenderwell openings are just a few of the important factors when determining what size tire will fit on your rig. This chart is meant merely as a guide to help you figure out what size tire might be best for your rig.

The Lowdown
As a general rule for off-road performance, we suggest keeping your rig as low as possible while running a beefy tire. This usually entails trimming the fenders, and incorporating bumpstops is helpful as well to keep your vehicle's center of gravity as low as possible.

INCHES OF LIFT NEEDED... ...TO FIT THESE TIRES (INCHES IN DIAMETER)

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31-----33--------35--------37-------38--------40---------42-------44+
CHEVY/GMC
½, ¾, & 1-ton leaf sprung---------69-91-----0-------0-2------3-6------6-8-------6-8--------8-10-----10-12-----12
½ & ¾-ton IFS----------------------88-98----0-------0-2------4-6-------6-8-------6-8--------8-10-----10+
½ & ¾-ton IFS late model---------99-06-----0-2----2-4------6----------8---------8-10------10+
Hummer H2-------------------------02-08----0-------0---------0---------4---------5.5---------6---------8+
S-10---------------------------------83-01----2-3-----4-6------5-6-------8---------9+
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31-----33--------35--------37---------38--------40---------42------------44+
DODGE
Dakota-------------------------------91-99----0-2-----3-5.5----6----------7+
Ram & Ramcharger-----------------69-93----0-------0-2-------4----------4-6-------6-8--------8----------8+
½ & ¾-ton Ram Pickup-------------94-02----0-------0-2-------3-5-------6-7--------7+
Ram 1500 late model---------------02-05----0-------1.5-2----4-6--------6----------7+
Ram 1500 late model---------------06-07----0-------2-3-------6
¾ & 1-ton Ram late model---------02-07----0-------0-2-------2-4-------4-6--------6-8--------8+

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31-----33--------35---------37--------38------40------42------44+
FORD
Bronco-------------------------------66-77----0-3-----0-5.5----3.5-5.5----5.5-7-----7+
Bronco/F-150------------------------80-96----0-------0-2------2-4---------4-6-------6-8-----8+
Bronco II/Ranger--------------------83-92----2-4-----4-6------6+
Explorer------------------------------90-01----2-4----4-5.5-----6+
Ford F-150---------------------------97-03----0-------0---------4-6---------6-8-------8+
Ford F-150 late model--------------04-08-----0-------2-3------3-6---------6+
F-250/F-350-------------------------80-97----0-------0---------2-4---------4-6-------6-8-----8+
Ford F-250/F-350 Super Duty------99-04----0-------0---------0-2---------4-6-------6-8-----8-10-----10+
Ford F-250/F-250 late model-------05-08----0-------0-1------2-4----------6---------6-8-----10
Ranger/Mazda B2500---------------93-97----0-2-----4--------6-------------8
Ranger/Mazda B2500---------------98-0-----0-2-----3.5-4----5.5-6

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31-----33--------35--------37---------38--------40---------42------------44+
INTERNATIONAL
Scout II------------------------------'72--------0------3-4-------4-6

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31--------33---------35----------37---------38--------40---------42------------44+
JEEP
Cherokee----------------------------84-01-----0-3------4.5-5.5-----6-8---------8+
CJ------------------------------------41-86-----1-2------2.5-4.5-----4.5-5.5-----6+
Grand Cherokee ZJ-----------------93-98------2-3-----3.5-4.5------5-6
J-10/20------------------------------74-91-----0--------3-4----------4
Wrangler JK-------------------------07-Pres----0--------0------------2.5-3.5-----4-5-------5.5+
Wrangler TJ-------------------------97-06------0--------1-2.5-------3-4.5--------5-6-------6-8------8-10
Wrangler YJ-------------------------87-95------1-2.5----3-4---------4.5-6

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31-------33--------35--------37---------38--------40---------42------------44+
NISSAN
Frontier-----------------------------05-Pres----2.5------2.5-3-----6
Hardbody---------------------------86-97------1-2.5---2.5-4------5.5-6.5
Titan--------------------------------04-07------0--------2.5-3------4-6

[COLOR="Blue"]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year-------31-----33--------35--------37---------38--------40---------42------------44+
SUZUKI
Samurai-----------------------------85-95-----2-3----4-6-------6-8

[COLOR="Blue"]----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/COLOR]
Model--------------------------------Year------31------33-------35--------37---------38
TOYOTA
4Runner-----------------------------84-85-----0------3-4------4-5-------5-7
--------------------------------------86-89-----0-------0-4------4-5
--------------------------------------90-95-----0-------3.5-4----4-7
--------------------------------------96-04-----0-------2.5-3
FJ-40--------------------------------64-80-----0-2.5--0-2.5-----2.5+
FJ Cruiser---------------------------06-08-----0-------2-3-------6
Mini truck---------------------------79-85-----0-------3-4------4-6-------7----------7 +
--------------------------------------86-96-----0-------3-4------4.5-6
Tacoma-----------------------------96-04-----0-------3-6-------6-8------8-10
-------------------------------------05-07------2------2.5-3-----6
Tundra------------------------------99-Pres----0------2.5-3----4-6

important info before you 4-link.....http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Links/

Crossover Steering - Drag Link to Opposite Knuckle

This is a common steering setup in solid front axles. The drag link to knuckle type crossover steering is also one of the most ideal aftermarket designs. With the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the drag link drops from the base of the pitman arm directly to the passenger side knuckle, either on top of the knuckle or below the knuckle's steering arm. This setup minimizes radial drag link and tie rod play due to ball joint movement. The tie rod connects the passenger side knuckle to the driver side knuckle. With this type of steering setup, keeping the tie rod as close to parallel to the axle will minimize bump steer.

drag link to knuckle type crossover steering system

Crossover Steering - Drag Link to opposite end of Tie Rod

Drag link to tie rod crossover steering is one of the most common factory steering systems. With a Drag link to tie rod crossover steering setup, the drag link connects the pitman arm and to a passenger side location directly on the tie rod. As the drag link controls steering by moving the tie rod, the tie rod serves to steer and maintain a parallel distance between the knuckles. This design comes with some inherent play even if all the parts are new and in good shape. To prevent binding , tie rod ends are sphere-shaped allowing rotation in all directions. As steering forces are applied the tie rod is inherently allowed to twist a few degrees forward or rearward. This twisting action allows forces that would have been applied as steering force to give a little and not steer the vehicle or allow the vehicle to wander a little.

Drag link to tie rod crossover steering system

V-Link Steering

The V-Link Steering configuration is another common factory steering system. The V-Link Steering configuration is made up with a V style or V shaped design where the driver side tie rod is connected directly to the drag link the connects the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle. The drag link also serves as the passenger side tie rod. Effectively forming a "V-Link" between the two steering knuckles. The biggest disadvantage of the V-Link steering configuration is that the distance between knuckle steering arms changes as the suspension cycles into compression. The net effect is that the tires will either toe in or toe out during suspension travel. As suspension compresses up into the vehicle, the tires will toe out. As suspension droops away from the vehicle, the tires toe in towards each other. The effects of toe in, toe out with a V-Link type suspension usually as minimal with stock suspension systems but become more exaggerated with modifications, lifts and increased angles applied to the drag link and tie rod.

V-Link Steering System

Re-circulating Ball and Tie Rod
Common for Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

With steering box equipped Independent Front Suspension (IFS) systems where the wheels and steering knuckles move independent of each other, the re-circulating ball and tie rod configuration is commonly used. The re-circulating ball and tie rod configuration uses a tie rod type connecting rod called a centerlink in between the pitman arm on the steering box and a rotating idler arm on the opposite side of the vehicle. Two independent tie rods, one per side, connect the steering knuckles to the centerlink. As the centerlink is moved by the pitman arm, the centerlink moves each tie rod, which move the steering knuckles. This design is optimal for independent front suspensions due to strength over rack and pinion type designs. One draw back to this type of design is the increased number of joints that wear over time. With more joints linking the steering box to the knuckles, a small amount of wear can be exaggerated into steering play. This type of design is also more difficult to lift while maintaining proper steering geometry.

Re-circulating Ball and Tie Rod Steering System

(IFS) Rack-and-Pinion
Common for Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

Rack-and-Pinion Steering systems are the more modern and advanced form of independent front suspension steering systems and are becoming more common in IFS 4x4's over (Saginaw) steering box configurations. The rack-and-pinion steering configuration setup uses a pinion gear at the end of the steering shaft that mates with a geared rack (or track). As the pinion gear is rotated by steering wheel, steering shaft movement, the rack is moved side to side. The rack in turn moves the two tie rods that connect the rack ends to each steering knuckle. Advantages of Rack-and-Pinion steering systems is precision of movement. Disadvantages of the Rack-and-Pinion steering system is a lack of power and durability sometimes needed offroad.

Rack-and-Pinion Steering systems

Double Crossover

Similar to the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the purpose of the double crossover steering system typically is to get around obstructions to the steering components, gain lift while maintaining steering geometry or to remove feedback to the steering wheel or relieve stress to the steering box.

The double crossover steering system uses a tie rod and a bellcrank as the first from the steering box. This first link between the pitman arm and bellcrank serves to redirect angles or relieve stress or feedback. From the bellcrank, a drag link connect down to the driver side knuckle or sometimes to the main knuckle to knuckle tie rod, similar to the drag link to tie rod crossover type steering system. This in effect allows the drag link to drop to the drive side rather than the passenger side of most drag link / tie rod systems.

Double Crossover Steering Setup

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist
By BillaVista

The top port (blue arrow) is the port that will have high pressure when the steering wheel is turned left.
The lower port is the one that will have high pressure when the steering wheel is turned right.
These descriptions assume a standard Saginaw orientation of steering wheel and box.

Commonly the holes are drilled and tapped to 1/4" NPT.
That would mean drilling a 7/16" hole, then using a 1/4' NPT tap (18 Threads per inch)

The Left port (blue arrow) is drilled centered on the box casting seam (not sure this is true for all boxes)
The right port (green arrow) is drilled inline with the stock port indicated by the red arrow.

A schematic showing the fluid flow.

The above boxes all sit on the inside of the frame rail like on a Jeep. If you have a box that sits outside the frame rail (like a Scout or Ford) and tapped it in those locations, the lines would be coming out right into the frame. My PS box mounts to the outside of the frame so I had to tap it in different locations. One of the ports (the one on the bottom rib of the box) I just moved to the other side of the box. I could have moved the other one to the other side as well, but there wasn't very much meat on that side of the box and I didn't feel comfortable tapping it there. Instead, I put the other port on the top of the box by the existing two ports.

another view

there are many different types. if you can think of some i left out let me know. i will add pics as i find them. where you see 4link you can use 3 link.

basic leaf spring.

eveything stock. 4.0 v-6 motor. its more of a put-around toy. will probably put the rims and tires off the s-10 being it has the same bolt pattern. then get a set of boggers for the s-10. some fat 40" or 42".